Cranks-style cheese buns recipe

This recipe is a slightly adapted version of the Cranks cheese roll: I remember both eating these at the restaurant and cooking them from the book, stuffed with cress, which added a welcome, fresh, light-green aspect. It might have been these buns that gave me a taste for the slightly nutty flavour of wholemeal flour.

This recipe is a slightly adapted version of the Cranks cheese roll: I remember both eating these at the restaurant and cooking them from the book, stuffed with cress, which added a welcome, fresh, light-green aspect. It might have been these buns that gave me a taste for the slightly nutty flavour of wholemeal flour. 

Prep time: 20 minutes, plus 45 minutes rising time and 30 minutes proving time | Cooking time: 30 minutes

MAKES

Six

INGREDIENTS

  • 400g stone-ground wholemeal flour, plus extra for dusting or as needed
  • 50g bran (optional; if you can’t find any, replace with flour)
  • 50g wheatgerm (this adds a lovely flavour, but can be replaced with flour if not available)
  • 2 tsp fine sea salt
  • 1 x 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
  • 1 tsp soft brown sugar 
  • 250g strong cheddar, grated, plus extra to serve
  • A little milk, for brushing
  • Cress and salad, to serve

METHOD

  • Put the flour, bran if using, wheatgerm if using, salt, yeast and sugar in the bowl of an electric stand mixer. Attach the dough hook and mix at low speed (you can also do this by hand), gradually adding approximately 400ml water – you might not need the full 400ml, as different flours will absorb varying volumes of water. You are looking for the mixture to come together in a soft dough – it may look a little sticky still, but will firm up during the kneading process.
  • When it comes together, knead the dough for about three minutes.
  • Leave the dough in the bowl, covered with a damp cloth or cling film, in the warmest part of the kitchen for about 45 minutes, to allow it to rise.
  • When the dough has doubled in size, knock it back and turn out on to a well floured surface. If the dough is too sticky then knead in some more flour by hand, a bit at a time. If it is dry then add a splash of water. When the dough is the right consistency it should spring back when you prod a finger into it. The glutens will now be in line and the dough should also have a shine to it.
  • Roll the dough into a rectangular shape about 2½cm thick.
  • With a long side facing you, imagine the rectangle divided into thirds. Scatter a third of the grated cheddar in the centre section of the dough. Fold one of the outer sections over this, and scatter another third of the cheese over this layer. Fold the remaining dough section over the cheese, so it has been trapped in layers.
  • Press out the dough to a thickness of 1½-2cm and cut out six 10cm-diameter rolls. You can use a cookie cutter to guide you, or simply shape them by hand if you prefer.
  • Put the baps on to a lightly floured baking sheet, cover with a tea towel and leave to prove for 30 minutes. Then brush their tops with a little milk and scatter over the remaining cheese.
  • Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/Gas 6.
  • Place the baking sheet in the oven for 10 minutes, then turn the temperature down to 180C/160C fan/Gas 4. Bake for around 20 minutes, until the buns are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped on the underside.
  • Allow to cool for an hour before serving if you can, then slice in half and serve with cress, more cheese and some salad.
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